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Helping you look good is our number one priority.
Putting on a great suit is transformative. Your shoulders are broadened; your lines, longer and leaner; your waist, that much trimmer. You look great, you feel great. That is, assuming you got the right suit and had it properly tailored. As any man who's spent an evening in a boxy rental knows, there are very few things as good as a great suit. There are—in the sartorial sense at least—fewer things worse than a bad one. Since even a modestly priced off-the-rack number can look like a million bucks with the right nips and tucks, we're here to help with six essential rules for getting a perfectly tailored suit.
This is the number one place most guys go wrong when it comes to tailored clothing. Even A-List stars—who should know better—have been known to leave things far too long. Though you don't necessarily need to embrace the ankle-baring aesthetic espoused by designers like Thom Browne, all that extra length isn't doing anything but making you look shorter and sloppier. Opt for a very small break (the edge of your pants should just brush the tops of your shoes) for a look that'll stand the test of time, but still feels modern.
The shoulders of your suit jacket should feel like they're hugging your own. If they're noticeably tight, the jacket is too small. And if the shoulder seams are sagging past the natural line of your body, like they do for all too many workaday types, it's too big. The shoulders are the one place that even expert tailors are hesitant to mess with: It's difficult, expensive, and can ruin your suit. Nearly everything else can be altered, but if the shoulders aren't spot on, it's time to return it to the rack.
Slightly less pervasive than the problem of pooling trousers—but no less pernicious—is that of over-long sleeves. Your jacket sleeve should end a quarter-inch to a half-inch before your shirt sleeve does. All the better to show a sliver of cuff. If your jacket sleeve is hitting your knuckles, it's way too long. This is an easy and cheap fix if the buttons on the cuffs aren't functional; your tailor will simply trim from the cuff up and then move them. If the cuffs feature working buttons, it's a bit more labor-intensive and pricey. The sleeve has to be taken up from the shoulder. Still, better than the knuckle-grazing alternative.
You might not be able to see it, but everyone around you will. The collar of your suit jacket, if not properly fitted to your neck, will sit away from your shirt collar, leaving a gap. This can happen for any number of reasons, and if it's not too severe, a tailor can usually fix it. But anything more than a small gap can be a problem. Watch out when you're buying, and unless you've got a particularly skilled tailor that you trust completely, steer clear.
Many suit jackets are made with a "democratic" cut, which is a nice way of saying they're designed to accommodate men of a certain girth around the midsection. If you aren't one of these men, it also means that your jacket will look boxy until you have your tailor take it in at the waist. Don't get too aggressive about it, though. Remember, you still need to be able to move in the thing. Aim for being able to comfortably fit a closed fist between your jacket and shirt when the top button is closed.
A lot of guys have tuned into the idea that going narrower on the pants is a great way to elongate the lines of a suit and create a tailored silhouette. Take a page from their book and taper your own trousers. One thing you might not have thought of is doing the same for the sleeves of the jacket. It's a little more complicated because your tailor will have to deal with the lining, but it'll make for a much more polished look in the long run. So, you know, worth it.
We want you to look good in all that you wear
Below are three options available to give you the look and feel you desire.
We will take your off-the-rack suit and alter it's fit to give you a more tailored look and feel. While this is the least expensive and quickest method, we may not be able to give you that perfect fit.
With this method we are going to take measurements of your body to determine which suit template pattern to use for each area of your suit. While created mostly by machine, this method will ensure a much better fit, however it may not include specific design details.
Here it is, and it's just for you. A bespoke suit is a fully tailored and custom-made garment. After taking a full set of measurements, we will draft your pattern, cut by hand and hand sew up to 70% off you new suit. Making it possible to give you all the design details you want.
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Whether you have a big meeting with your boss approaching or you’re simply preparing for a formal family get-together, you’ll want to look your best – and this is not always possible with a shirt that doesn’t suit your preferences and specific measurements. That’s where Pamoja Co. comes in. With a simple design process that gives you total control over the product, Pamoja Co Sewing Services offers custom-made dress shirts designed and handcrafted in the USA for you and only you.
A lot goes into selecting the perfect fabric for your dress shirt. Consider the occasion – is it of a more serious nature, or will the crowd be more relaxed? For the first scenario, consider choosing a neutral tone, such as white or ecru. Bright colors and eye-catching designs may go over well at lighthearted events, such as dinner parties or wedding receptions. Regardless of the occasion, Pamoja Co. offers a broad selection of fabrics from a number of notable names, including Alumo, Grandi & Rubinelli, Soktas and more, and our collection lets you choose between various materials, patterns, colors and textures to find your ideal look and feel.
After choosing the fabric, you’ll have even more opportunities to ensure your shirt comes out exactly how you imagined. First, you’ll select your button style – our buttons, crafted by Italian manufacturer, Linea Mitiaro, are available in an assortment of designs intended to match your preferred fabric. Then, you’ll be able to sort through a variety of options that lend your shirt a personal touch, including collar, cuff, front, back and pocket styles. To top things off, we even offer complimentary monograms that make it easy to personalize your shirts.
Often misunderstood, plagued by an overabundance of terms and names, and surprisingly difficult to find in a comfortable fit.
However, pants bring everything together even when they aren’t the star of the show.
Understanding the role of your trousers and the options you have in choosing them are the keys to comfortable, sharp-looking clothes for your lower half.
Good trousers are never the defining characteristic of a man’s outfit, unless you’re a circus clown.
A well-chosen outfit should direct attention toward the face and help it stand out in the viewer’s mind, and drawing the eye below the waist does nothing to further that goal.
Instead, trousers should present as smooth and unbroken a path as possible up the wearer’s body; the best trousers will be able to retain their sleek profile whether the wearer is moving or stationary; seated or standing.
On a more practical note, of course, trousers are also where men tend to carry the little necessities of life — their keys, wallet, cell phone, and so on.
A well-fitted pair of dress pants should never be able to slide off the body on its own, even without a belt or suspenders.
Trousers are often tailored for wear with suspenders rather than belts, in which case the fall will be even longer and the fit slightly looser. This allows the pants to “hang” on the man’s body, which presents a very smooth and flat drape.
Pants are just as important as your blazer...
The main difference in the various types of fit is the amount of fabric used in the clothing. The slim fit fits the body closely and comfortably. It is a good choice for men whose body type is lean and slim, with narrower shoulders and chest. For many brands, the slim fit is usually the tightest fit available and offers no allowance for tailoring down.
A tapered fit would refer to what we know as the skinny fit. For pants, this fit tapers from the opening at the thigh to the opening at the cuff. Shirts with this fit tapers at the waist.
The tapered fit also suits men with slim frames, but it can make you look even skinnier than you really are which may not be a good look. If a tapered fit looks too gaunt on you, opt for the slim fit.
The tailored fit is an overlap between the slim fit and the traditional fit. It offers a little bit more fabric so it doesn’t cling as closely to the body as the slim fit does. For shirts, it is moderately tapered at the waist while for trousers there isn’t much tapering towards the bottom.
The tailored fit is great for men with athletic or average physiques. Another advantage of the tailored fit is that it has allowance for further tailoring, so you can take it to your tailor who can work their magic to make sure that it fits you perfectly.
If you have a rounder body type and you feel that a tailored fit just won’t do, go for a full fit. Full fit dress shirts or suits usually offer an A-line silhouette that is more comfortable and flattering for men who carry more weight. Full fit is also known as the comfort fit or relaxed fit by other brands.
Pamoja Co Sewing Services is available to answer all of your fitting questions. Contact us via this website and we will it be happy to assist.
When it comes to dressing for more upscale events, women have far more style decisions to make than men; we know we’ll be donning some version of a dress shirt and suit. But when it comes to adding the finishing touch — the tie — some men feel confused as to how to choose a tie that will complement the other elements in their ensemble.
The biggest mistake I see men make when trying to match their neckwear to their clothing is that they have bought the wrong tie for the clothing in their wardrobe.
Like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole, they will either frantically try to match garments together at the last moment or not care at all and reinforce the stereotype that men can’t dress themselves. In order to easily match your ties with your shirts and suits, you need to own neckwear that complements the more expensive clothing already in your closet.
Necktie proportion relates to the necktie’s width and length in regards to a man’s body build and clothing style. A large man with large suits and a wide front is going to look best when he balances it with a wider than average tie that is long enough to reach his belt buckle. A petite gentleman has the opposite problem and should look for smaller neckties that are not only skinnier width-wise but also shorter in length. These special size ties can be found at many online retailers
For those of us who are close to average in size, proportion can become a problem when we purchase from high-end fashion designers or pick up vintage pieces from thrift shops. Average-sized men should try to wear ties ranging in width from 3 to 3.75 inches. Anything wider or thinner is best reserved for a man whose size calls for it — otherwise you are drifting into the realm of fashion, not style.
If you find yourself shopping for ties and need a quick way to measure the width, pull out a dollar bill. If the tie is close to Washington’s nose, you’re safe. If it extends out past the portrait frame or is behind his head — consider passing on the necktie.
The point is don’t buy a tie just because it looks great — buy neckwear that is of the right proportion for your body and is of a color and pattern that works well with your shirts and suits. You want your ties to match your clothing — not look good by themselves.Coordinating your tie, dress shirt, and suit isn’t rocket science. All it requires is a basic understanding of proportion, pattern, and color which can be used to build an interchangeable wardrobe. Start with easy-to-match shirts and suits — then add a range of flexible neckties that accent and enhance the outfits you put together. Do this and you’ll find yourself wanting to wear a necktie more often as it adds color to your complexion and makes you look better overall.
There is not a perfect answer to which color goes best with any given outfit. Two factors that determine the right color for a man include the message he is trying to signal and the color combination that works best with the natural colors of his complexion.
For a muted but sophisticated look, consider pairing semi-solid and lightly patterned blue and green ties with cool blue colored clothing. If you’re looking to draw attention to yourself, opt for the stark contrast of a bold red colored tie on a light colored shirt. The red tie is called the “power tie” for a reason; this combination works well for presenters as it captures wandering eyes and points them right to the speaker’s face.
As far as what colors work well with a man’s particular features, you’ll want to mimic your natural contrast levels. Men with light colored hair and fair skin have low contrast and should stick with pastel and monochromatic color combinations. Men with dark hair and light skin are high contrast and will look best selecting color combinations which have clearly defined lines between them. If you have dark hair and medium to dark-colored skin, you can pull off both low and high-contrast tie and shirt/suit combinations. Your difficulty in this case will be separating acceptable suit/shirt/tie combinations from great looking suit/shirt/tie combinations. It’s a small distinction, and one best made by taking the clothing in your wardrobe and experimenting with various shades.
What about how the colors within a necktie work with one another? Multicolored neckties fall into two categories — ties whose colors complement one another and ties whose colors do not, because the tie designer/manufacturer did not create the tie with a discerning eye. The colors on the computer screen are not always true to real life, so I purposely choose to buy my ties through businesses whose judgment I trust. I can rest assured that 99% of the time my ties’ color combinations will be solid and complementary, even if the colors aren’t quite the same as what I saw online. Cheap ties and novelty neckwear often violate basic color combination rules and should be avoided.
Finally, it should be noted that 8% of men are colorblind and have difficulty matching clothing. If you fall into this category, the best advice I can give is to ensure your wardrobe is interchangeable and to consider working with a trusted clothier, friend, or image consultant who can ensure you’re not wearing color combinations that clash.
Matching neckties with strong patterns is the hardest neckwear issue for most men. This difficulty is directly reflected in neckwear sales — strongly patterned ties sell infrequently when compared to solid or semisolid ties. I rarely see them worn, and even then they are almost never worn to full effect. However when worn correctly, these rarely used neckwear gems can breathe life into an otherwise dull outfit.
The key to wearing patterned neckwear is to first ensure that the tie’s own colors do not clash (see above as to how to avoid this) and second, that the tie’s patterns do not conflict with any patterns in your shirt or suit.
When combining a patterned tie with a shirt and suit ensemble, ensure the pattern is not already present in the clothing. A thin-striped shirt should not be combined with a thin-striped tie; however, that same thin-striped shirt will work well with a polka dot, solid, or even thick regimental striped tie as the patterns are not similar. The reasoning behind all this is that similar patterns placed close to each other can create distorted visual effects such as the illusion of movement.
If you’re new to combining necktie patterns, the easiest way to add neckwear with complex patterns is to ensure your suit and shirt are pattern-less. If this isn’t possible, start with ties which utilize small repeating patterns such as dots, foulard, or small images (club or sport ties). Stripes are the next step, keeping in mind the rule of pairing them with shirt and suit combinations that either have no stripes or have ones that are of a different width and size than the tie’s stripes. Paisley and plaid ties are solid options as well; I don’t usually push them though as they are sometimes too eccentric for many men. Their larger patterns, however, make them even easier to match to a shirt and suit than striped ties.
The dress shirt is the first garment you should ensure matches your tie; next to the jacket, it is the most important clothing accessory in determining what tie color and pattern you can wear. However, unlike the jacket which you may peel off by lunchtime — your shirt stays on all day. Without a jacket, the dress shirt is the only surface upon which the tie sits, and if there is a color clash it will be impossible to hide. So get it right!
Starting off, the easiest shirts to match are solids. Whites offer a neutral base and match anything. Light blues are very close, as the few colors that would clash with them are seldom found in neckwear. Off-white and pastel colored shirts are easy to match as well, although you always want there to be a clear distinction between shirt and tie fabrics.
As for striped shirts, again you’ll want to avoid matching similarly sized stripes. If there is any doubt that the shirt stripes are too close in size or width to the tie’s pattern, move on and select another tie.
With check fabrics, look to match the casualness of the pattern with a tie that is more playful in tone. Club, foulard, and paisley ties all work, as do solid wool knitted ties with square ends. More advanced pattern matchers can combine various sized checks, but leave this to those with practice as the look can come off as too busy and distract attention from your face.
Finally, you should always avoid color combinations that are either too jarring for your lack of contrast or too monotone as to wash out your complexion.
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